In addition to high-value and dressy timepiece debuts we discussed in our earlier look at SIHH 2017 watchmakers also offered plenty of sporty and technically focused watches replica for our consideration this year.
Audemars Piguet, Panerai, Roger Dubuis and Ulysse Nardin each offered interesting variations to existing collections. Each of these watchmakers to some degree fashions its message to collectors with attention to novel case and bracelet materials.
Among the most discussed at SIHH 2017 were new options Audemars Piguet now offers the many fans of its classic Royal Oak. This leader of the luxury sports watch category expands its solid gold offerings while also adding a black ceramic watch to the ever-increasing mix of Royal Oak options.
You may recall the unusual finish of the Audemars Piguet Frosted Gold models, which we showed you here after their debut in November. Audemars Piguet at SIHH 2017 went even further with its solid gold options by adding a new series of Extra-Thin Royal Oak ‘Jumbo’ models in yellow gold.
The newest offering expands last year’s return to yellow gold within Royal Oak. This year’s thinner models, all equipped with famed Caliber 2121, add blue or champagne dials, and they contrast beautifully with the warm gold case and bracelet.
These Extra-Thin Royal Oaks garnered much attention at their debut last week, but Audemars Piguet had more changes in store, some of which (mildly) challenged Royal Oak purists. Two-tone dials on the 2017 Royal Oak Chronographs offer noticeably larger subdials at 3 o’clock and 9 o’clock and a very slightly moved date window. I like this touch of modern.
Another contemporary addition to the Audemars Piguet lineup darkens a complicated favorite. Last year’s very successful yellow gold Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar now has stable-mate crafted with a hand-finished black ceramic case, bezel and bracelet. And the finish here is brushed, not the shiny black variety you’ll see on so many less illustrious ceramic watches replica.
The noir-ish demeanor of this classic complication is dramatic. Furthermore, we haven’t seen a full ceramic bracelet from this brand, though Audemars Piguet has plenty of experience with high-tech bezel and case materials. The company says it takes five times as long (fully 600 hours) to finish this black ceramic case and bracelet compared to the work required for its steel cousin.
That production time is well spent judging by the results–and by the buzz this 41mm watch generated during last week’s show. The watch’s $85,000 price tag will not deter many passionate Royal Oak buyers.
And finally, the watchmakers at Le Brassus have also expanded the case options for the Royal Oak Tourbillon Extra-Thin (which in yellow gold was a favorite of mine in 2016). The options now include two new limited-edition versions: one in brushed pink gold with matching bracelet, the other in stainless steel. Just like their platinum and yellow gold predecessors, each model features the in-house caliber 2924 hand-wound skeleton movement.
Lube-Free & Corrosion-Resistant
Meanwhile, Panerai also encourages sports watch enthusiasts with it own brand of case material experimentation. Clearly, this Italo-Swiss brand is serious about becoming a leader in developing new materials for sports watches replica, and at SIHH 2017 Panerai jumped ahead of most of its peers with two particularly cutting-edge models.
Among the five new Panerai Luminor Submersible models that debuted last week, one, called Luminor Submersible 1950 BMG-Tech 3 Days Automatic – 47mm, is forged from a substance not previously seen in the watch industry.
Called BMG (Bulk Metallic Glass), the case material is a special glass-like alloy that also consists of zirconium, copper, aluminum, titanium and nickel. In combination with the cleanly designed rich blue dial, the new case and its super corrosion-resistant alloy is as impressive on the wrist as it is on paper. Price: $10,200.
The second high-tech Panerai entry to 2017 is the Panerai LAB-ID Luminor 1950 Carbotech 3 Days LAB-ID, a bold 49mm model with a carbon-layer/polymer case that’s fit with a movement guaranteed to run without lubrication for fifty years.
The LAB-ID’s case is made of a composite carbon-fiber-based material (which you may recall from last year’s Carbotech model) and its dial is covered with carbon nanotubes. Inside, its P.3001-C manual-wind movement is made from carbon composites and operates without any lubrication.
The LAB-ID’s movement’s plates, bridges, barrels, escapement and anti-shock device use self-lubricating and dry lubricating materials. Many of the movement’s surfaces are coated with Diamond-Like Carbon (DLC) while bridges and plates are made of a completely new material: a low friction composite that integrates a Tantalum-based ceramic.
The watch, a tour de force of high-tech micro engineering, is priced at 50,000 euros, or about $53,000, will be made in a limited edition of fifty.
Panerai also announced that it would extend its already prominent role in the world of yacht racing to become an official partner of the 35th America’s Cup. Panerai has partnered with Oracle Team USA (the current holder of the Cup) and Softbank Team Japan. Naturally, Panerai will offer several new limited-edition America’s Cup watches replica, including the Panerai Luminor 1950 Regatta Oracle Team USA 3 Days Chrono Flyback Automatic Titanio – 47mm, Panerai’s second model with a regatta countdown function.
In the next iwmagazine.com post reviewing interesting SIHH 2017 debuts, we’ll take a closer look at the high-tech horology of Ulysse Nardin and Roger Dubuis.