The Art Deco period began around 1908 in Europe with Parisian designers and artists as principal exponents. The design movement took inspiration from the earlier Art Nouveau period, but eschewed its flowing shapes and pastel shades in favor of chrome and black geometric forms.
I adore many of the watches replica that emerged from this time. Two personal favorites include the Vacheron Constantin American 1921 and the effortlessly stylish Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso. Looking at the clearly defined lines and crisp dials, these designs continue to proffer an abundance of eye appeal despite the passage of time.
In 1945, Girard-Perregaux, the horological maison based in La Chaux-de-Fonds, itself a haven of architectural significance, released a wristwatch capturing the majestic aesthetics of the Art Deco movement. Rectangular in form, this 1945 watch was delivered in alternating steel and golden tones and was equipped with a small seconds display at 6 o’clock.
Over the years, Girard-Perregaux has taken some of the design codes of the 1945 timepiece, diffusing them into new watches replica and sometimes equipping them with complications.
This year, Girard-Perregaux has paid tribute to the iconic design of that 1945 model by delivering a magnificent new timepiece that faithfully captures the persona of the original. The Vintage 1945 Small Seconds 70th Anniversary Edition is stunningly beautiful and, on seeing it earlier this year at Baselworld, I knew it would be inevitable that at some point I would become reacquainted.
The Dial
The beige dial immediately imparts a sense of nostalgia, bestowing an almost aged appearance.
Girard-Perregaux has not produced a replica of the original watch, but has successfully captured some of the design essence of the 1945 model. The hour and minute hands on the 70th Anniversary model are dauphine-shaped, absent of luminescent material. This is in stark contrast to the original watch which featured luminous baton hands with fine points. Indeed, the hand design is probably one of the most noticeable visual differences from the 1945 original.
The faceted, dauphine-shaped hour and minute hands on the 70th Anniversary model exhibit a greater sense of luxury. This sumptuous characteristic is augmented with the use of applied Arabic numerals in a stylized font, compared with the functional, flat, black numerals of the original.
Close examination of the hands reveals they are curved, following the contour of the arcing dial surface. Girard-Perregaux’s talented artisans employ dexterous skill to manually curve each hour and minute hand, working to minute tolerances, ensuring nothing interrupts the seemly passage of time.
The small seconds display echoes the appearance of the 1945 model, as does the railroad track encircling the dial.
This is a dial, which evinces elegance and grace, proving simple to read with a welcome absence of the extraneous. It is truly wonderful to behold.
The Case
The case is delivered in gold and steel, with the bezel presented solely in pink gold. The contradistinction of the functional steel and luxurious noble metal are highly agreeable, sitting together in harmonious union.
Where this case is truly unusual is that it arcs along two axis, north-south and east-west. The resultant outcome is beguiling, bestowing an abundance of eye-appeal. Moreover, beyond its handsome mien, the curving line of the caseback accords an ergonomic interface with the wrist, nuzzling the arm in contented synthesis.
The crown is partially recessed into the caseband, hugging the case and adopting a neat, discreet appearance.
Similar to a swage line on the bodywork of a modern-day car, where two surfaces of a body panel meet, gadroons break the line between the straight sides of the caseband and the tapering horns. This detail looked perfect on the 1945 model and continues to confer a flourish of seemly elegance on the latest interpretation of the timepiece.
The caseback is solid and adorned with an engraved Vintage 1945 anniversary logo. I have toured the production facilities of Girard-Perregaux on previous occasions and know that the level of craftsmanship employed in making its movements is superb. It is therefore with a pang of sadness to discover that this watch does not feature an exhibition caseback, albeit I concede this would never have appeared on the original watch.
Accompanying the watch is a magnificent mid-brown alligator strap with off-white stitching. Stroking its form with an inquisitive index finger reveals a lavishly, delightful feel, reinforcing the perception of quality. The strap is complemented with a folding steel buckle. The self-winding GP03300-0051 has a frequency of 28,800 vph (4Hz), contains 32 jewels and a power reserve of 46 hours.
Closing Remarks
Girard-Perregaux has produced a stunning timepiece with the Vintage 1945 Small Seconds 70th Anniversary Edition. It has not created a replica of a former model from its back catalogue, but captured the essence of the 1945 masterpiece and created a new work of horological art.
By adopting the aesthetic influences of the art deco period, this watch delivers a timeless appearance, which should still look spectacular seventy years from now.
Technical specifications
Model: Girard-Perregaux Vintage 1945 Small Seconds 70th Anniversary Edition
Reference: 25880-560111-BBBA
Case: Gold and steel; dimensions 36.20mm x 35.25mm; height 10.83mm, sapphire crystal to front and solid caseback.
Functions: Hours; minutes; small seconds
Movement: Caliber GP03300-0051; self-winding movement; frequency 28,800 vph (4 Hertz); 32 jewels; minimum power reserve of 46 days
Bracelet: Brown alligator leather strap presented on a steel folding clasp
Angus Davies is founder of www.escapementmagazine.com