La Bulgari Octo Finissimo Automatic a remporté le très convoité Prix de la Montre Homme au Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève (GPHG) 2017. Mais précédemment, elle avait déjà été élue meilleure montre de l’année aux prestigieux Tiempo de Relojes Awards, lors du Siar de Mexico, un mois avant, couronnée montre de l’année par le magazine L’Orologio en Italie, et présélectionnée dans la catégorie “Design Stars” des Germany’s Watch Stars 2017/2018. Non contente de battre des records (c’est la montre-bracelet automatique la plus fine du monde), l’Octo Finissimo Automatic a également été saluée par les experts horlogers du monde entier.
Autre modèle de cette même collection, l’Octo Finissimo Tourbillon Skeleton, a aussi remporté un prix dans la catégorie «Tourbillon et Echappement» du GPHG. En plus d’illustrer parfaitement la polyvalence de la collection, ce deuxième prix a une fois encore démontré la popularité et le succès de la gamme Octo. Ces récompenses sont aussi une forme de reconnaissance de la légitimité de Bulgari au sein de l’industrie horlogère et rappellent que la marque a énormément plus à offrir que la joaillerie pour laquelle elle est la plus connue.
They’re powered by the on site BVL 262 automatic motion that works at 4Hz with 42 hours of power reserve and can be adorned with Geneva stripes, polished bevels, and snailing. It’s visible through what is apparently a tinted sapphire crystal screen caseback, and the opinion is partially obscured from the Maserati emblem. While the bottom motion is the BVL 191 found in a number of additional Bulgari watches, the jumping hours and right-hand would have required significant modification.Bulgari has played a bit with retrograde complications for an avant-garde appearance and technically more interesting bundle. They’ve done a fantastic job of producing a very distinctive design language and offering something unlike virtually anything else out there from mainstream brands. The Bulgari Octo Maserati Mono-Retro watches include a little Gerald Genta (Octo instance, of course) plus a little Daniel Roth, as the jumping hour and retrograde hand is reminiscent of the Papillon watches (hands-on here using the Bulgari Papillon Tourbillon Central watch).While that the Bulgari Octo Maserati Mono-Retro watches are not as haute horology as any other watches done with Maserati, pricey and exclusive is to be expected. Both are available just at Bulgari boutiques. 102717) in black DLC steel has a USD price of $12,800 and will only be accessible to the first 30 buyers of their Maserati GranTurismo and GranCabrio cars. The Bulgari Octo Maserati Mono-Retro GranLusso in golden (ref. 102906) is $30,700.
Octo Finissimo Tourbillon Skeleton © Bulgari
The surprising thing about the Octo is that it is rapidly gaining the status of a cult watch even though it has a relatively young design. Compared with models from other brands whose designs date back to the 1960s and 1970s, the current Octo collection is just five years old. What gives the Octo its appeal is the fact that it is so different from any other designs on the market. Because of the complex shape of the case, which has numerous individual facets, with a combination of brushed and polished finishes, the Octo successfully marries the square with the circle without you really noticing it. Look closely, however, and if you traced a line around the extremities of the case you would end up with a shape that resembles more a square than an octagon. The bezel, on the other hand, is a circle. But the many angles on the lugs and the octagonal interior flange cause the two distinct shapes to intermingle, giving rise to the Octo’s distinctive shape.
In its short lifespan the Octo has evolved into a fully-fledged watch collection with a range of different movements – from the simple three-hand classic (the “Solotempo”) all the way up to the minute repeater. In the Finissimo line, the self-winding, tourbillon and minute repeater versions are all record-holders in terms of the thinness of their respective movements. There is even a hand-decorated skeletonised version of the tourbillon movement that is no thicker than the record-breaking version at 1.95mm thickness, which represents an additional technical tour de force. But there is also a manually-wound calibre with power reserve visible on the back and a high-frequency (5Hz) column-wheel chronograph calibre found in the Velocissimo chronograph and the recently launched Octo Maserati line. The two extremes of the collection are set by the extremely elegant Octo Roma models at one end and, at the other, the extravagant Ultranero sapphire tourbillon with its pillars filled with green SuperLuminova.
Octo Ultranero © Bulgari
The Octo collection is necessarily infused with the Italian touch and offers designs that appeal to a variety of tastes. Models such as the Ultranero, for example, have a more urban and contemporary feel with their dark accents and splashes of vibrant colours. The Finissimo models appeal to connoisseurs who appreciate the technicality that goes into complications such as the minute repeater and the skeleton tourbillon. While the Octo Roma, presented earlier this year, introduced a softer take on the case design to appeal to those who appreciate Italian elegance.
Given its success, the Octo collection is sure to evolve even further, and perhaps sooner than we think.
Octo Roma © Bulgari